Plant Gardens 101

We would all love to have beautiful water features in our gardens, but what about the electricity costs of running them? What if it was possible to keep running that picturesque water fountain in these times of rising fuel prices? Well, it is, if you choose a solar powered water feature.

It’s difficult to truly sit down and relax in ones own little garden, even with the soothing trickle of water playing on the pebbles of your favourite water feature. Why? Because you’re thinking about your electricity bill and the cost running those wonderful therapeutic little devices.

Well, why don’t you truly relax and forget about those bills. How? Don’t have any bills to begin with! (at least not for your fountain), switch to Solar Powered Water Features.

The benefits of solar power all too well documented in this day and age, but here are a few things to think about which may have slipped your mind. (more…)

It is most beneficial to feed wild birds during the winter months when their natural food may be unavailable but shortages do occur at other times of the year. So putting food out for the wild birds at any time of year can help when there are shortages. During the breeding season a temporary shortage of food will affect the young fledglings so it is especially helpful to put out food for the birds at this time.

Feeding in the Spring and Summer

During the summer and especially when they are moulting, birds need high protein foods. Good examples to put in your feeder are raisins, currents, black sunflower seeds, grated cheese, meal worms, soaked sultanas and commercially prepared summer seed mixtures. You can also purchase mixes for insect loving wild birds. (more…)

Before installing a water feature you need to ask yourself several important questions first:

What is your budget? How much can you spend on the entire project? You could spend $3,000 on a water feature and find out you still need an additional $1,000-1,500 for plants and amenities, such as a deck, gazebo, walkways, fish or landscape lighting in the pond, waterfall and lawn. Other possible extras are a biological filter, auto-fill for pond, skimmer, back-flushable bio-filter, and more.

How big is a water feature? If you are building your own, then structurally size is not that big an issue! I would charge the same price for a 3-foot high waterfall as I would for a 5-foot; the same for a 3 by 5-foot pond as a 4 by 6. There is only a $200 difference in cost between the 1,000 and 2,000 square feet of concrete shell surface. Your main concern about size should be space, not cost. How much of your yard can you sacrifice? Even if the space between your house and the property line fence is limited, a water feature can be incorporated.

Small ponds 1½ to 3 feet deep can facilitate a sump pump located within the pond. Even though a sump pump is inexpensive, it consumes much more energy than an above-ground pump. A pond any deeper than 3 feet requires an exterior pump for better accessibility and maintenance, and at a higher cost. But they pay for themselves in a short period of time with the energy savings. Also, larger ponds require greater filtration, more cleaning and maintenance.

The size of the waterfalls will determine the size of the pump needed. The higher the waterfalls, the bigger the pump needed to supply the water and the greater the cost for electricity. Height creates head pressure which requires more energy and is the major factor in operating cost.

How much entertaining will you do? Will you need a deck? If so, how big? You might consider placing a pond next to an existing deck. Many people do just the opposite, they build a pond and then construct a deck beside it. In this case, you can take advantage of an existing deck and construct an open stairway (stair bridge) to span the pond. This affords unique access to the opposite side.

Will you have adequate room for table and chairs? Do you want a spa? Or a fire pit or barbeque? Enough lawn for games? Where do you spend most of your outdoor leisure time? That is the area for your waterfall! The waterfall will bring you the most enjoyment, therefore it should be located closest to the area where you plan to spend most of your time out of doors.

Do you want to see or hear the waterfall from indoors? Consider adding an exterior patio or French doors to your house to access your water feature area. Do you wish to have fish and other aquatic creatures? Long term, a properly maintained nitrogen cycle costs less than maintaining a pond that uses chlorine and other chemicals. Fish, plants and proper bacteria are needed for healthy pond and nitrogen cycle. Once properly established, a healthy fish pond is virtually maintenance free.

Are you willing to remove or replace certain trees or bushes to enhance the waterfall and pond? Some trees have very aggressive root systems that can literally move concrete as they grow, causing cracking and upheaval. Certain trees can contribute a great deal of debris to the water feature that fouls the water and may cause premature failure of the filter system.

What type of rock do you want? A commonly used rock is cobble stone. However, because of the round shapes, water rolls over the surfaces and creates a minimum of sound or visual effect. In contrast, irregular, angular, sharp-edged granite or similar rock creates turbulent conditions similar to white water as it flowsover the edges. The greater the “white water” the more sound is produced. Also, a side benefit is the aeration of water which benefits fish and discourages the production of algae. However, do not attempt to match the color of rock with the decor of the house, brick and other features of your home. Stay natural – contrast is good!

What about electrical supply for the pump and equipment? In 20 years I have never seen the electrical costs for supplying power to the equipment site exceed $1,200, and the average is less than $400.

What about a water supply for an automatic water leveling system? Water is very accessible in any household and getting it to the water feature site is a minor expense. Simply tap into an outside water faucet.

There are hundreds of questions that arise in the course of a water feature project. It is best that most of these questions are answered prior to commencement of construction, it could save you hundreds of dollars by avoiding mistakes.
Look before you leap and research before you weep. Happy koi, peace and joy.

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For many owners, there is nothing comparable to an exterior design stone fireplace. They can dramatically change the landscape of your home and provide a feeling of peace. Here are some simple tips to help you start planning your outdoor stone fireplace.

With any type of outdoor fireplace made of stone, you have several options in materials.

Natural stone - This is the most common material of all design outdoor fireplace. You can choose from an endless series of natural stone that you can use as you see fit. (more…)

Sometimes I get calls from people who have purchased a new home with an old pond that has a big problem. The number one complaint is that it won’t hold water; second is the water is green; third is that the rock work is ugly – an eyesore! At that point I ask if they have a pond liner pond and waterfall and they are surprised that I knew that, however eighty percent of all these type calls pertain to a liner pond and waterfall. We have replaced over $40,000 worth of defective liner ponds. One customer in Rancho Bernardo, California had spent $14,000 to have a koi pond and waterfall built by a large and well respected local pond liner supply company. They complained of needing to add water daily since the liner pond was constructed over a year ago. The pond liner installer’s response was that the loss of water was from evaporation. The liner pond was fitted with a manual auto fill system and they discovered the solenoid was turning on every 15 minutes to replenish the loss. In addition to the annoying water loss, they could not enjoy their fish for half the year because of murky green foul-smelling water. They reported the pond liner company came out dozens of times dumping various concoctions in the pond with a promise of startling results. The results were startling all right – our client sued the pond liner store and contracted with us.

The first thing I discovered was that the volume of the liner pond was eight thousand gallons and the waterfall pump was only 1,000 gallons per hour. It was taking eight hours to run the total pond volume through the filter. Secondly, the filter was rated for a 2,000 gallon pond, not 8,000. (Filters are usually overrated by their manufacturers as it is.) Third, the ultraviolet light was also rated for a 2,000 gallon pond, making it only one-quarter effective (according to its ratings) at controlling suspended algae growth. Fourth, because the pump was only 1,000 gallons per hour, it was not strong enough to properly backwash the filter, which requires 4 times the flow to be back-flushed properly.

Consequently, the filter was overloaded with rotting waste material that was contributing to additional pollution of the liner pond. The fifth defect in design was caused by the pond’s large surface area, which was surrounded by several deciduous trees that were dropping their leaves into the liner pond. Needless to say, there was no skimmer installed. So all this debris ended up rotting on the bottom of the pond, contributing to the nitrate and ammonia overload. The sixth was that the suction drain on the bottom was at the same end of the liner pond as the waterfall. Consequently, the water was only circulating between the water returning to the pond and the water leaving it (from waterfall to drain). Half the liner pond was not circulating properly and was stagnating because the nitrifying bacteria were not receiving adequate oxygen to do their job of breaking down the nitrites.

NOW LET’S DO IT RIGHT
We were asked to assess the condition of the liner pond and determine the cost to correct the problems found. We turned off the waterfall in the liner to test the evaporation theory and discovered (with the falls turned off) that the pond was losing 25 to 30 gallons per day, or 750 gallons per month! Installing a larger pump filter and UV was not going to solve all their problems. I suggested that since a reputable pond builder and store owner was involved, he should get a second opinion. He was confident that, with our reputation of 22 years and 1,800 ponds under our belt (at that time), we knew what we were doing.

After finding a temporary home for the fish, we drained the liner pond and quickly made two discoveries. As the water was being pumped out of the pond, there was a small waterfall developing from the water that poured back through a hole in the liner created from a tree root. Also, water was leaking back through a loose seal around the bottom drain as fast as we could pump it out. (This continued for some time, revealing there were hundreds of gallons of water being stored in the sandy soil surrounding the perimeter of the liner pond due to the ongoing leaks.) We offered to repair the faulty drain and patch the punctured liner and refill it, but the owner insisted we do it right, using rebar plus 3500 PSI concrete and skimmer. Unfortunately, not one single item in the entire system could be reused in the new construction. Even the PVC piping had to be scrapped since it was undersized for the pump.

In the final analysis, because this project was not thought out or designed properly, the initial $14,000 spent was entirely wasted. Replacing everything and installing it correctly cost the customer $17,000. The new pond was constructed of 3/8” and ½” rebar, 10” on center with 4 ½” of 3500 PSI concrete and fiber mix added. The ugly fiberglass waterfall was removed and replaced with a natural looking waterfall constructed of concrete real granite rock. A skimmer was installed on the opposite side of the pond from the waterfall. The bottom suction drains (two anti-vortex drains in series to prevent turtles or fish from getting sucked against the drain) were placed on the opposite side of the pond from the waterfall to maximize circulation. Next, a Venturi Valve was installed to add additional oxygen and create a circular current in the pond. This delivers oxygenated water to all areas. A 6000- gallon biofilter was installed with two 180-watt ultraviolet lights. The high efficiency filter pump, which runs 24 hours a day, and is rated at 4,800 gallons per hour.

We installed a second pump of the same rating to allow for twice the flow volume off the waterfall on demand. It is also operated by a timer that comes on twice a day for one hour. This keeps sediment stirred up in the waterfalls and pond to aid the filter in removing it. The skimmer now removes 90 percent of all debris falling into the pond before it can become waterlogged and sink to the bottom. The electronic water level control we installed in the previous pond at the owner’s request was the only item that was reused in the new system. It is designed to add water to the pond automatically as needed due to normal water loss through evaporation and wicking around bog planters into adjacent soil. This story has been repeated dozens of times over the past few years.
Fortunately, most of them were on a much smaller scale. Most of our business is word of mouth, so I imagine there are many people who, not knowing whom to call, simply gave up and turned their water feature into a rock garden. Think twice before investing too much money into a liner pond. Ask the contractor specific questions about the precautions he takes against leaks caused by roots and critters. Also, get several bids on concrete and rebar constructed ponds, they usually only cost 20% more and can be expected to last for decades. My last word of advice, be patient, take your time and thoroughly investigate the contractor and his claims.

An ounce of prevention…

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A popular saying for garden gnome enthusiasts is that so many gnomes so little time. The phrase mainly refers to the large collection of garden gnomes available on the market today. The gnome statues that you may view on gift shops, garden accessory shops and designing outlets have a wide variety. You may find different types that would surely suit your preferences such as funny garden gnomes, collectible gnomes, vintage garden gnomes and even gnomes which represent your local sports or festivities.

So many gnomes so little time. A garden ornament collector can experience something like this when it comes to collecting every possible design of garden gnomes available on the market. There are several garden gnome designs that are related to fictional stories written by popular authors such as The Secret Book of Gnomes and The Gnomes. Most garden gnome manufacturers get some ideas from these fiction novels in order to get suitable designs for garden gnomes. Some notable designs for garden gnomes include those which are adopted from the storybooks such as Randell gnome, Morty gnome, George gnome, Mervin gnome and many more gnome characters from Rien Poortvliet’s children’s book. (more…)

It can mean the difference between life and death of your koi fish!

Alkaline Koi Ponds

Generally speaking, alkaline conditions are more common than acidic in ponds, especially the newer ones. If the pH remains over 8.5 for any length of time, the koi fish will become stressed or diseased. Here are some helpful examples:

Symptoms

• Lethargic or listless fish due to damaged mucus coating; prone to fungal infection and other disease
• Plants chalky in appearance due to calcium deposits
• Prominence of waste chemicals which harm pond life
• Biological filter loses effectiveness Reasons
• Introducing fish too soon into a newly constructed pond that was not properly sealed; the lime or alkali from the cement will raise the pH to the top of the scale. Even a shovel full of concrete or mortar can cause serious problems.
• Lime leaching from cement products such as blocks, stepping stones and similar materials over a period of time.
• Lime in stone products subject to erosion
• Excessive growth of algae.

Solutions

• If the pond alkalinity is from the koi pond being new, allow adequate time for the pond to age. To speed up this process introduce bacteria found in a koi pond starter solution.
• Institute a partial pond water change to dilute the alkalis
• If high alkalinity is due to an over-abundance of algae, remove excessive growths of thread algae.
• If these steps do not result in a lower pH, use acidifying compounds or pond pH buffers. Acidic Koi Ponds
• Low pH conditions occur less often than alkalinity in koi ponds. Symptoms
• Fish become stressed, resulting in sickness; they may start dying off.
• Oxygenating plants such as hyacinths, water lettuce, Elodea and Anacharis become discolored and wilted.
• Biological filtration ceases to operate correctly. Reasons
• Pond water may have lost its buffers due to excessive amounts of rain, which is soft and very acidic in many areas due to pollution. Loss or decrease in buffering agents can create drastic fluctuation in pH.
• There may be high levels of humic acid or other organic acids produced by build-up of decomposing plants and leaves.

Solutions

• Regular partial water changes
• Adding buffers to pond by placing a mesh bag of oyster shell gravel, dolomite or crushed coral gravel in filter or waterfall. Water passing through the material will pull out the calcium carbonate and raise pH.
• Using pond-buffer salts (sold in pond supply stores) Partial Water Changes

Wastes and toxins tend to build up in most ponds, despite use of a biological filter. As water evaporates, pollutants remain and build up over time, becoming dangerously concentrated. For this reason it is highly recommended for smaller koi ponds that you drain and replace 20 percent of the koi pond a couple of times a year. Larger koi ponds are generally much more stable and the water chemistry does not fluctuate radically. This water should be siphoned or pumped from the bottom of the koi pond, where the majority of pollutants collect.

No more than 20 percent should be replaced since larger amounts could easily upset the balance of the koi pond. This is especially true if the replacement water is softer or contains high levels of chlorine or chloramines. It would also be advantageous to keep most of the rotting debris cleared from the bottom. Decaying fish and pond waste produce ammonia, methane and other toxins which can be fatal to the koi pond family.

If you are adding water with a garden hose, it is best to adjust to low volume and a mist that sprays gently through the air before entering the pond. This will allow some of the chlorine to evaporate. If you add the water quickly, add a dechlorinating product to the koi pond to neutralize the chlorine and chloramines. Unless you are adding water to your koi pond by means of an electronic aquafill water leveling system, always use some type of a timer or alarm to remind you to turn off the water! If left unattended for an extended period of time, you could find your pond overflowing and your koi fish dying from chlorine poisoning. It happened to me… several hundred dollars worth!
Happy koi, peace & joy.

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Do you find yourself wondering what you could add to your garden or your backyard to enhance it further? If you’re like several other people such as me, you want to make your garden or backyard the best it could possibly be. One of the easiest ways to solve this issue is to place a wooden outdoor bench out in or near it.

A wooden outdoor bench can come in several different styles and types. Finding the benches is an easy task however finding the right wooden outdoor bench that matches your garden or backyard décor can be a little more challenging.

Choosing Your Wooden Outdoor Bench

You may be asking yourself what is a good way to choose a wooden outdoor bench? Well there are several factors that will go into your decision of choosing the right bench for your situation. There are a few factors that you should look at when you’re deciding which bench to get. (more…)

Plant lights, or grow lights are artificial light sources that replace the sun’s natural light. They are designed to support growing plants, and to be used indoors. Artificial planting lighting is a necessity if you want to produce healthy seedlings indoors because most homes, even those with abundant Southern exposure, cannot capture enough sunlight in the early spring to grow strong seedlings.

Plant lights use special types of light bulbs, usually fluorescent, halide, high pressure sodium, or LED, which are different from incandescent or compact fluorescent light bulbs. Grow lights are also known as grow lamps. Grow lamp bulbs emit either cool or warm light. Cool light, which is primarily in the blue spectrum, is good for promoting foliage growth; whereas warm light, primarily in the orange spectrum, is good for producing flowers and fruit. Plants do not actually use the entire spectrum of the sun’s light, only the red/orange and blue ranges are necessary. (more…)

If you want to bring out the very best in your garden this summer consider your outdoor lighting. While it’s important that exterior areas such as those areas directly outside the home in both front and backyard have fixtures to provide lighting for visibility and security (homeowners can choose from a wide range of exterior fixtures such as wall mounts, post lights); it is also a great idea to incorporate lighting into the garden. If you are thinking about doing so, remember that there are a number of options to consider.

Choices in Landscape Lighting:

Basically, there are three ways to add lighting to your garden: line voltage, low voltage and solar. And, for most homeowners, especially the do-it-yourself kind, the final 2, low voltage and solar, are, in most cases the best choices. Why? Both can be installed quickly and safely, without risk of electric shock. These lighting types are also low or no energy consumers. As far as lighting options go, with a low voltage system you can accent or create visibility lights to decks, pathways, stairs, and garden beds. You can do the same with solar fixtures; however, there may be less choice. see: http://www.chandeliers-and-home-lighting.com/outdoor-lighting.htm (more…)

The use of gnome figurines for decorative purposes for the garden has been widely practiced in different parts of the world especially in the European regions. Some people wonder of the reasons why put a gnome in your garden. The definite answer by garden gnome enthusiasts is that the presence of gnomes in the garden would help promote the natural growth of your plants. According to the folklore, the gnomes are known to be creatures that take care of the vegetation. They are believed to have good hands when it comes to growing plants. This concept is being implemented by gardening aficionados believing that this would effectively make their garden plants grow naturally.

Putting aside fictional and mythological ideas, the reasons why put a gnome in your garden is that it can create a good impression on the overall look of the garden. There are several garden gnomes available on the market today such as vintage garden gnomes, state garden gnomes, funny garden gnomes and even those which support local sports or activities. These garden gnomes especially the funny garden gnomes add design and humor to your garden. Adding such designs to your garden would create a lively effect on the impression from your visitors. You may also integrate the right type of garden gnome that would fit the style and ambiance you need for your garden. (more…)

Contrary to common belief, biological filters do not process or filter the solid waste of fish in your koi pond. They continue to build up and putrefy, creating a breeding ground for harmful species of heterotrophic bacteria which are pathogenic to koi fish. As stated, the biological filtration process utilizes Nitrosomonas bacteria to break down ammonia into nitrite and nitrobacter, further converting nitrites into nitrates, which is less harmful to koi fish.

Plants now utilize the nitrate and phosphate for fertilizer; if you have not provided an adequate ratio of water plants to koi fish, “hard” algae (growing on rocks and koi pond walls) and “free- floating” algae use nitrate and phosphate to reproduce. The key to preventing this condition, called “algae bloom,” is to provide enough nonsoil bearing plants such as water lettuce and hyacinths to compete for the nitrate and phosphate. Since these two plants are tropical and can only survive in warm climates, hardier varieties such as Elodea and Anacharis will perform well in cold climates. These plants are commonly used in bio-filter ponds.

A bio-filter pond is used in conjunction with shallow koi ponds with small populations of koi fish. It will also eliminate the need for a mechanical bio-filter and a second pump to operate it. The bio-filter pond is located higher than the main pond for two reasons. It prevents the koi fish from eating the plants and it allows the water from the waterfall to be filtered as it passes through the plants prior to spilling into the lower koi pond.

An adequate ratio of plant cover for the koi pond’s surface is approximately 20 to 30 percent. This is a basic rule of thumb and many factors can change this equation. For example: koi fish population, water temperature, and debris accumulating from leaves or over-feeding the koi fish. I have said many times that the Koi Pond is the koi’s living room, dining room and toilet.

If you do not have a bio-filter, that could explain why your koi pond is a tad green, stinky, or cloudy, and why your finned family is gulping air on the surface. Trust me. That will not be for long. Fish gulping air to survive would be like you — in an attempt to avoid breathing poisoned air — gulping water to survive. I have a do-it-yourself simple instruction sheet with diagrams, for building your own bio-filter using $25-$35 worth of parts from any home improvement store. Also includes a shopping list of necessary items. download free (no sign-in) no obligation… http://www.homepage.mac.com/doughoover/ Happy koi, peace and joy.

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An outdoor pergola is a standing structure which typically is used for shading or covering a specific area in an outdoor living space. The two separate design styles of pergolas are described as being either free standing or attached to a solid wall, such as the side of your home. Pergolas can be designed in a combination of different shapes and sizes, the most popular shape being a rectangular. That being said, a pergola can be almost any shape, even curved. Curved pergolas, however, can be quite costly due to the additional labor involved. They are often designed in the shape of an arc. These fit nicely along a curved hardscape surface.

A free standing pergola gives you the flexibility of being able to cover any area of your garden, patio space, or pool. For example, you may have a patio space which was designed adjacent to your pool decking. A pergola could be built over this area, regardless of the shape of the patio, for the purpose of decor and shade. It’s beautiful to look at and provides much comfort on very hot, sunny days. (more…)

Tapping the limitless solar energy is a simple, economical and a profitable way to save depleting natural resources. Solar energy, a relatively new multifaceted concept in energy harnessing, provides us with low cost alternative to traditional lighting systems. The energy of the sun is stored by solar panels or generators by charging long life batteries and discharge of this electricity is stopped by sophisticated proprietary charge regulators when batteries are fully charged. This enables the solar outdoor lighting to work even on cloudy or rainy days.

Solar outdoor lightings have progressed from earlier models using incandescent bulbs burning out faster without producing enough light to the present models with LED or light-emitting diode light bulbs and nickel-cadmium or nickel-metal-hydride batteries. These use less electricity and last longer. Another reason for growing popularity of solar outdoor lighting is that it is cost efficient and maintenance free unlike traditional electricity system. The solar panel backed by warranty and personalized power plant energized by sun is not dependant on generating stations, substations, switches, transformers or transmission lines. Secondly solar outdoor lightings are self programmed and if one fails the other light is not affected. A one time installation cost as opposed to running costs towards cables, trenching, metering equipment, construction and electric bills tilts the verdict in favor of solar lights. (more…)

The most basic conditions of your koi pond water chemistry are the pH factor (which stands for potential Hydrogen) and water hardness. These factors alone can determine the life or death of your koi pond’s inhabitants (I call them the “Fam Fam”).

The pH of the koi pond water is measured on a scale of 1-14, with a reading of 7 considered “neutral.” Any reading above 7 is alkaline; anything below 7 is acidic. Most fish prefer a pH value of 7.2 to 7.6, or just slightly on the alkaline side of the scale. However, koi and goldfish can adjust to gradual changes in pH from as low as 7 to as high as 8.5 and still remain healthy and flourish.

Hardness or buffers in the koi pond water can raise the pH levels. Even though hardness is a separate measure from pH, the two respond to each other chemically. Pure or “distilled” water has a pH of 7 and an absence of buffers or hardness. Neutral pH is unstable, however, and if it has no buffers or hardness, it can quickly drop to the lower (acidic) end of the pH scale – as low as 4.2 to 4.8. At this level of acidity the fish’s gills become burned and eventually become unable to extract oxygen from the water, ultimately suffocating.

Should the pH in your koi pond ever drop to these levels, never try to raise the pH too quickly. By placing coral gravel, dolomite, or oyster shell gravel in a nylon filter bag inside your filter or directly in the waterfall, moving water can pass through it and the pH will rise to 7.0 or 7.3 in less than two days.

To prevent the drastic fluctuation in hardness buffers affecting pH, you should include one or more of these gravels in your filter system at all times – especially if you are replenishing your pond with soft water. The gravel should be replaced every 9 to 12 months since all the buffers will be leached out by that time. If the buffers are used up and the pH level drops to 6.0 or lower, the nitrifying bacteria that break down the toxic fish waste, ammonia, and nitrite will stop functioning. At a low pH, highly toxic ammonia chemically changes to relatively non-toxic ammonium. If you raise the pH rapidly, the ammonium will also quickly return to ammonia, which could be fatal to your fish.

Please invest in the health of your fish. Purchase a koi pond test kit from any pet or pond store. Invest the time to read the directions and start regularly testing your koi pond. Remember, clear water does not mean clean! As in the water we drink, just because the water looks clear, smells good, and tastes good does not mean it is clean.

Most of the most toxic, cancer-causing priority pollutants listed by the E.P.A are colorless, odorless, and tasteless. Do not ever forget the simple facts: You have a toilet in a separate room of your house. Your scaly friend’s living room is their toilet, and they have to swim in it. Keep it flushed and clean.

If you do not presently have a bio-filter, please purchase one, or at no cost to you, download instructions and a parts list of simple items you can purchase from any home improvement store for less then $65 and build one yourself using an electric drill and a hand saw.

Download with no oblication or log in required at - http://www.askdoughoover.com Happy koi, peace and joy.

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